The other day Alex and I had our first weekend off together in a long time and we had been feeling lazy…and broke. So we decided to do something free and active. We decided to climb Mt. Saint Helena, and it was a wonderful/crazy idea. I actually have never climbed a mountain besides Vesuvius, and honestly it is not that hard considering most tours (and mine) drive you more than 75% of the way up, so while I was the one who suggested climbing the mountain I was more than wary of what I had gotten us into. Mt. Saint Helena is the tallest mountain in Sonoma County and the hike is 5 miles up 2,000ft and of course you always have to go back down. Alex and I did it however and it only took us 4 1/2 hours! I am amazed that I was able to climb the mountain and it was utterly exhilarating to have accomplished this. Here are some photos from our awesome adventure!
We then spent about 20 minutes searching for the picnic benches. Don’t fret they are behind the cell towers and to get there you just need to take the second trail on the right. There will be 3 benches with a map of the vista.
Mt. Saint Helena is located on Highway 29 in Calistoga, CA. To reach Louis Robert Stevenson Park simply follow Highway 29 up the mountain until you see a sign on the right side of the road and a parking lot on the left; pull in either to the right or the left as they both count as parking lots. The trail head is on the right hand side. The beginning is fairly simple with a few switchbacks as you head up the mountain and then you will reach the Louis Robert Stevenson memorial. Once you reach this point which should take about 20 minutes take the eroded/barely there trail off to your right. Don’t take the scary trail up to the cave, this will not take you to the top of the mountain. The trail on your right will connect to a fire road, turn left and head straight on till morning or at least to the top of the mountain. It is a great hike just know if you go in the summer make sure to bring plenty of water. We brought about 2 1/2 liters of water and really I wish it had been more. Also it is great to bring lunch because there are picnic benches at the summit where you can relax and enjoy the view before heading back down the mountain.
If you find yourself in Sonoma County and you have found that you have been wine tasting too much in Healdsburg and need a break than definitely head to Mt. Saint Helena, also the famous Chateau Montelena (the winery from the movie “Bottle Shock”) is at the bottom of the mountain.
{"html": "A Little Background on the Mountain
Mt. Saint Helena sits at the northern end of the Napa Valley, and it is easy to drive right past it without thinking twice. From the road it looks like just another big, brown-and-green hill, but it is the tallest peak in the area and, on a clear day, the views from the top stretch for miles in every direction. Much of the climb runs through land that is part of the state park system, which is one reason the trail is so well loved by locals who want a real workout without a long drive.
The park is named for Robert Louis Stevenson, the author of Treasure Island, who spent part of his honeymoon in the area. That is the memorial you pass about twenty minutes into the hike, and it is a nice little moment to catch your breath and imagine a writer wandering these same slopes. Knowing that history made the walk feel less like a workout and more like a pilgrimage, at least for the first mile or so, before my legs started complaining.
What the Climb Actually Feels Like
The beginning is gentle enough that you start to think this is going to be easy. Then the switchbacks give way to the fire road, and the fire road simply keeps going. It is a steady, relentless incline rather than a scramble, so you never need any climbing skill, only patience and stamina. There is very little shade on the upper stretches, which is why the sun felt so strong on us in the middle of the day.
Having only ever done Vesuvius, where a bus does most of the work, I was not prepared for how different it feels to earn every foot of elevation yourself. Somewhere around the halfway point I had my doubts, and Alex had to remind me that turning around would also mean walking the same distance back. In the end that stubbornness is what carried us to the top. The final stretch is not especially dramatic, but reaching the summit felt like a small victory.
- Expect a steady uphill grind rather than anything technical.
- The upper part of the trail has little cover from the sun.
- The way down is easier on your lungs but surprisingly hard on your knees and toes.
What to Pack
We learned a few things the hard way, so here is the short list I would give a friend. Water is the big one: we carried about two and a half liters and still ran low, so bring more than you think you need, especially in summer. Lunch is a must, since the benches at the summit are the perfect reward and there is nothing else up there.
- Water: more than 2 1/2 liters per pair of hikers if it is warm out.
- Food: a real lunch plus a snack or two for the walk down.
- Sun protection: a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses, because of the exposed fire road.
- Shoes: something with decent grip, as parts of the trail are loose and eroded.
- A phone or camera: the views from the vista are worth it, and so are the silly summit photos.
Timing Your Hike
Our round trip took four and a half hours, including the time we wasted hunting for the picnic benches, so give yourself a full half day and do not plan anything tight afterwards. Starting early is the smartest thing you can do in the warmer months, since the climb is far more pleasant before the heat of the afternoon settles in. Cooler seasons are kinder still, and the hills can look lovely when they are greener.
Remember, too, that the descent takes real effort and concentration. By the time we turned around we were tired and a bit giddy, which is exactly when people twist ankles. Take it slow on the loose gravel and save the celebrating for the car.
Making a Day of It
One of the best things about this trip was how cheap it was. There was no ticket, no tour guide, only gas, snacks and a few good hours of effort, which was exactly what two broke and lazy people needed. Afterwards we felt like we had earned a proper meal and a long, tired, happy evening.
If you enjoy stories about getting out and moving your body through new places, you might also like 8 Lessons I Learned from Walking 500 Miles, which tackles a far longer walk with a lot more wisdom than I had on this one. And if the hike inspires you to read before your next trip, our list of top 10 travel books that evoke a country is a good place to start. As for me, I now have a new answer when someone asks whether I have ever climbed a mountain, and I am already wondering which one comes next.
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