A little while back we wrote an article about Hadrian’s Villa in the town of Tivoli. It is an absolutely amazing site for people to visit especially if you love ruins and architecture but did you know Hadrian’s Villa inspired a Renaissance villa called Villa d’Este?
Villa d’Este is perhaps most known for its amazing fountains and when Alex and I visited Hadrian’s Villa we also decided to spend the other half of the afternoon exploring the gardens. You can explore the villa itself but it is really known for its grounds and the fact that it has sweeping views of the Roman countryside.
This is the view you are greeted with as you enter the gardens at Villa d’Este. This alone should convince you to visit
The Roman countryside is really beautiful. I always suggest to people to spend some time outside the city when they come to visit. Country life in Italy is really something special.
We occasionally take pictures together. They all look like this and the backgrounds just change. In this case one of the awesome fountains we found while wandering the gardens.
The main terrace of the Villa d’Este has these gorgeous reflecting pools and is a great spot to relax and take it all in.
Tivoli is easily reached from Rome by train and is definitely worth the trek out there, even to just spend the afternoon exploring the grounds of the villa and perhaps having a glass of wine on the terrace. :)
Have you ever visited Tivoli? What did you think of the gardens at the Villa d’Este?
A Little Background on Villa d’Este
Villa d’Este sits on a hillside in Tivoli, a short distance east of Rome, and it began life as something quite different from a pleasure garden. The building was originally part of a convent, and it was transformed in the sixteenth century when a wealthy cardinal took over the property and turned it into a grand residence. His ambition was to create a retreat worthy of the ancient emperors, and the proximity of Hadrian’s Villa only a few kilometres away was no accident. Renaissance patrons loved the idea of reviving the glory of antiquity, and Tivoli had the ruins to prove it.
That is why the two sites feel like a natural pair. Hadrian’s Villa shows you what the Romans built; Villa d’Este shows you how the Renaissance imagined and borrowed from that world. Statues and fragments were even taken from the ancient ruins to decorate the new gardens, which I find a wonderfully cheeky bit of recycling.
Today the whole complex is recognised as a World Heritage Site, and it is considered one of the finest examples of an Italian Renaissance garden anywhere. Walking through it, you can feel how carefully everything was planned.
How the Fountains Actually Work
The thing that astonishes most visitors is that the fountains do not rely on modern pumps. Water is drawn from the nearby Aniene river and channelled to the gardens, where gravity does the rest. The terraces step down the slope, and the pressure created by the drop in height is what sends the water leaping into the air. For a design that is centuries old, it is a remarkable piece of engineering.
Because the system is so cleverly balanced, you will find an enormous variety of effects as you wander: tall jets, gentle cascades, basins that spill into one another, and even a fountain that was designed to imitate the sound of an organ. There is also a long walkway lined with small jets and carvings that creates a lovely, cool, almost hypnotic atmosphere on a warm afternoon.
The sound is half the experience. Even when you cannot see a fountain, you can hear it, and the garden feels alive with running water everywhere you go.
Planning Your Visit
Tivoli is an easy day trip, and if you are staying in the city you can find more ideas for your time there in our Rome City Guide. A few practical thoughts from our own afternoon:
- Combine it with Hadrian’s Villa. We spent the morning among the ruins and the later part of the day in the gardens, which worked out beautifully.
- Wear comfortable shoes. The gardens are built on a slope, with plenty of stairs and uneven paths, so you will be walking up and down quite a bit.
- Check opening hours before you go. Schedules can change with the season and on certain days, so look at the official information for the latest details.
- Bring water and a hat in summer. Much of the walking is in the open, although there are shady spots among the trees.
- Take your time. It is tempting to rush through, but the best moments come from sitting by a pool and simply watching the light change.
The train from Rome is straightforward, and from the town you can walk up to the entrance. It is a pleasant way to start, with the old streets of Tivoli giving you a taste of life outside the capital.
Exploring the Villa Itself
Although we spent most of our time outdoors, the interior of the villa is worth a look if you have the energy. The rooms are decorated with frescoes that reflect the tastes of the Renaissance, with mythological scenes and elaborate designs covering walls and ceilings. It gives you a sense of how the household lived and entertained, and how closely the interior and the gardens were meant to work together.
The windows and balconies also offer fresh angles on the gardens and the countryside beyond. Seeing the grounds from above helps you appreciate the layout, with the paths and water features arranged in a way that is almost like a carefully composed painting.
Why It Is Worth the Trip
If you only have a few days in Italy, it is easy to feel that Rome should fill every hour. I understand that, but I would still encourage you to make a little room for Tivoli. After the crowds and traffic of the city, the cool air, the sound of water and the long views over the countryside feel like a gift. You can explore more of what we love about the city in our Rome city guides, or browse all of our City Guides for other places worth discovering.
For us, Villa d’Este was the perfect end to a day of history. It is relaxed, beautiful and full of surprises, and it reminds you that Italy’s treasures are not limited to its famous museums and monuments. Sometimes the best afternoon is simply a slow walk through a garden with a view.