Visiting the Hagia Sophia was so incredibly high on my list of things to see of things to see in Istanbul that as soon as I arrived it was the first thing we went to see and has obviously made it on to my top reasons to visit Istanbul. The building was something that had always fascinated me because of its rich history and the buildings survival throughout different periods of history, rulers and religions. It is a building that, while cliche, completely encompasses the mix of east and west you expect to find in Istanbul. The Hagia Sophia is a building that is Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Turkish and has so much history and architecture.
The first Hagia Sophia was built in 360AD and was named after Holy Wisdom. The church took on true importance during the reign of Justinian I when he decided to redesign the church to be larger and more awe inspiring than the previous incarnations of the church. The church was built out of materials from all over the Byzantine Empire including purple porphyry marble from Egypt, hellenistic columns from Ephesus and black stone from the Bosphorus and it was completed in under six years. The church is considered to have changed the history of architecture and it was the largest cathedral until the Seville Cathedral was built in 1520.
The Hagia Sophia was the focal point of the Eastern Orthodox Church until the Ottomans conquered Istanbul in 1453 by Sultan Mehmed II. Sultan Mehmed then, instead of razing it to the ground (which was kind of him), converted the church into a mosque. The christian elements of the church were removed or plastered over, in terms of the mosaics, and replaced with Islamic features. While it was quite nice of him to leave the building standing he was not so kind to the citizens who had taken refuge in the church with them either being enslaved, raped or murdered.
In 1935 the Republic of Turkey converted the mosque into the museum that it is today. The carpets were removed and the mosaics and frescoes were uncovered. Today there is a small area for Christian and Muslim worship but the building itself is no longer a religious building. Today the Hagia Sophia is considered the best example of Byzantine architecture and honestly it is one of the most inspiring buildings I have ever seen. The mix of Christian and Muslim elements and the history behind this building is what makes the Hagia Sophia such a unique site to visit. There are so few buildings in this world that capture the way certain places have changed throughout time and the Hagia Sophia is one of them. You can literally trace the history of Istanbul in this building, from its humble Roman beginnings, to the center of the Eastern Orthodox Church, to the Ottoman Empire and the Muslim faith, and then to modern day Turkey.
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The first thing that struck me on stepping inside was not the gold or the marble but the sheer volume of air. The central dome rises high above the nave and appears to hover, helped by a ring of windows around its base that lets light pour in and makes the structure look as though it is suspended from the heavens rather than resting on stone. It was a remarkable engineering feat for the sixth century, and the builders were clearly more interested in creating an experience than in simply putting up a roof.
The trick lies in how the weight is carried. The dome sits on pendentives, curved triangular sections that carry its load down to massive piers, while half-domes on either side extend the space and spread the forces outwards. The result is an enormous open interior with no forest of columns blocking the view. The building has needed repairs and added buttresses over the centuries, especially after earthquakes, but the basic idea has held up remarkably well. Standing under it, you can see why architects have been studying it ever since.
Layers You Can Still See
One of the real joys of visiting is playing detective. Because the building has been so many things, almost every wall carries evidence of more than one era. Look up and you may find a Christian mosaic of the Virgin and Child in an apse, while nearby huge round discs hang with Arabic calligraphy giving the names of Allah, Muhammad and the early caliphs. The two sit in the same space without any apparent awkwardness, which is a strange and rather beautiful thing.
- The mosaics: Gold-backed figures of Mary, Christ and emperors are found in the upper galleries and entrance areas, and they are worth hunting out rather than rushing past.
- The Ottoman additions: The mihrab, the minbar and the minarets that surround the exterior were added after the conversion, and they change the silhouette of the building from the outside.
- The worn stone: Check out the polished, dipped surfaces of the floors and ramps, which have been smoothed by centuries of feet.
It is the accumulation that makes it so compelling. Nothing here feels like a museum reconstruction; it feels like a building that simply kept being used by whoever came next.
Practical Tips for Visiting
Since it is one of the most popular sights in the city, a little planning goes a long way. Arrive early in the day if you can, as the queues build quickly and the interior becomes crowded, which is a shame in a space that is best appreciated slowly. Check the current opening hours, entry rules and any dress requirements before you go, because the way the building is managed has changed over time and details can differ from what older guidebooks say.
- Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and carry a scarf if you are a woman, as you may need to cover your hair.
- Take your time on the upper gallery, where the views down into the nave are among the best in the building.
- Bring a bottle of water and wear comfortable shoes, as you will be on your feet on uneven stone for a good while.
- Look up often. Most visitors spend half their time with their eyes on their phones and miss the details above.
Making a Day of It
The Hagia Sophia sits in the old heart of Istanbul, so you are surrounded by other things worth seeing within a short walk. The Blue Mosque faces it across a shaded park, and the Topkapi Palace and the underground Basilica Cistern are close by. Seeing them together gives you a clearer sense of how the Byzantine and Ottoman worlds fit together, with the Hagia Sophia as the starting point for both.
If you like reading before you travel, our list of Top 10 Travel Books that Evoke a Country is a good place to find something that sets the mood. For me, though, no book quite prepared me for walking in and looking up. It is one of those rare places that lives up to its reputation, and then quietly exceeds it.
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