8 Lessons I learned from Walking 500 miles
First, allow me to introduce myself and my journey. I’m Jenna, a 26 year old, who recently re-entered the ‘real world’ of full time work. In June 2013 I decided that teaching high school PE was not for me. Gang violence, cultural divides, and battling administration was not how I saw myself starting my ‘dream job’. So with three days left in the school year, I handed over my letter of resignation and sighed with relief. I had given up a coveted East Bay teaching position for the great unknown. That summer I moved out of my Walnut Creek apartment, and settled in with my dad and brother at our family home.
The Camino de Santiago had been on my mind for a few years. Introduced to me by my mom, the 500 mile pilgrimage across Spain sounded like something I needed to do. One day in June, I came to the decision that I too, would join the thousands of ‘peregrinos’ and walk across Spain. I pored over blogs, books, and yes watched ‘The Way’, to soak up as much knowledge as I could prior to my journey, and one hot day in August, I boarded a plane to Spain and was off. 500 miles is a long way, alone or in a group, and here is what I learned on my journey.
My 35Liter pack weighed in at 14 pounds (without hydration). That 14 pound pack was my lifeline for the next 30 days. Two shirts, two shorts, shower sandals, LIMITED toiletries, socks and a jacket. That was what was taking me to the finish line. I met so many people with 25, 30 pound bags, and was secretly proud every time thinking that I was a female packing no makeup, or excessive clothing items.
When you look at a map, it is easy to see the path for the Camino. East to West, one can make a line and see the cities you pass through. What one might forget is that that journey can take anywhere from 25-45 days. Each day, you chunk off 15-25 miles, and when you look at the map, that doesn’t look like much. I started to retrain the way I thought to recognize my small accomplishments, rather than thinking how much more I had left to do.
So many times I found myself hungry, thirsty, or with blistered feet, and without proper supplies. The kindness and generosity I experienced on the Camino is unlike anything I have ever seen. Everyone is willing and ready to give, share, or nuture, regardless of language, cultural background, or hiking ability. If you have a blister, someone almost instantly pops up ready to share their countries best healing technique. The kindness can be found in the most unthinkable/random/dark/….. places, and helps you when you’re down.
I went off on this trip alone, and faced much criticism from friends at home. Many thought I was crazy, or traveling alone because I did not have friends. Hardly. I was yearning for adventure, and not many people are as eager as I to take an insanely long ‘walking vacation’. Being alone, I was able to meet some of the greatest people, and speak Spanish more freely than I ever thought possible. My language abilities, coupled with my freedom of solo travel, instantly availed me to new friends, great conversation, or the coveted peace and quiet.
Seems like the opposite of number 4, but its true. Hundreds of thousands of Peregrinos walk the Camino. Especially in the summer. Sleeping in municipal albergues, full of snoring people on bunk beds, and sharing community bathrooms, solitude was not something I was lacking. At any given time on The Way, I could look ahead or behind and see fellow pilgrims. It was a comfort knowing that I could be walking alone, yet not entirely alone. It might not make sense, but it did for me.
More and more uncommon these days, but so true. Traveling alone, I had the obligatory check ins with my family. I also love talking to my mom, and will call her at any time. I found myself seeking WiFi any where I went, at times being known as a WiFi person. Not my proudest title. It was a fine balance of disconnecting from the Western world, embracing my current town, yet sharing this incredible experience. No matter what, family comes first, but if you put your phone down, you might see something new.
About halfway through my Camino, I got incredibly sick. Overworking my body, without adequate rest, and the stress of travel was bogging my down. I immediately texted a fellow solo travel friend, and asked what to do when feeling this way. She suggested a break. I pulled up a google map (yes I was on the WiFi!), and looked where I was, and looked immeditly north. I found Gijon, a northern Spain beach hot spot. Within the hour, I booked a train, and my own beach front AirBnb apartment. I was beyond thrilled to take a weekend away, and rest my body. I spent the weekend alone, Wifi free, in a rainy beach town. It was one of the most glorious experiences of the entire trip.
You never know who you will meet that has done, or will do the Camino. I was at a garage sale in July before I left, and ended up talking to the woman hosting it. Turns out, she is doing the Camino in April 2014. We chatted that hot July afternoon, and still chat to this day as she prepares for her journey. I am grateful to have met such a wonderful friend, and share the Camino as our common thread.
If you asked me one year ago, if this was what I would have been doing, the answer would be no, but if you ask me today if I am happy with my decision, the answer is abosultely. The Camino is not for the light of heart, and will challenge every aspect of your being. It can be the most beautiful thing, and at times, the hardest thing. To this day, this was the hardest thing I have ever done. Yet I would say that it is the most rewarding personal accomplishment I have made to this day. Would I do it again? Quite possibly, and if I did, I might shock you and say that I would go alone. Buen Camino everyone.
Jenna is currently a comfortable peregrina living in the East Bay with her family. She works for Junior Achievement, and coaches a Junior Varsity lacrosse team.
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Alex and Ashley
Alex and I are foodies and boozies who are excited to travel the world one culture at a time in our upcoming round the world trip. We are setting out on this adventure to showcase all the wonderful people and cultures in the world through our writing, videos and photography. We will be traversing the globe from San Francisco to Iceland to Australia to South America over the next six years. We cannot wait to share our experiences with you.
16 thoughts on “8 Lessons I learned from Walking 500 miles”
Kiwi says: March 18, 2014 at 13:29 Awesome to hear about your experience. I’m going to the Camino in September and can’t wait!! Reply inpursuitofadventureblog says: March 18, 2014 at 13:32 Glad you enjoyed it! Have an amazing time -Jenna Reply
Elena (http://gonewiththebackpack.blogspot.com/ ) says: March 20, 2014 at 03:29 Travel alone but you are never alone! So true! I really envy you for 8kg pack…Mine is always way heavier! El camino is always an unforgettable experience..shame you got sick at the end! Reply Jenna says: March 27, 2014 at 12:52 A light pack made for very repetitive outfits! But it felt so great to have a light pack, and appreciate how little I needed for survival! Reply
mytanfeet says: March 20, 2014 at 09:21 Sounds like a great experience and definitely a memorable one (besides getting sick) but that’s all part of it right? What a wonderful accomplishment! Reply Jenna says: March 27, 2014 at 12:51 Thank you! Reply
Bianca Malata (@ItsAllBee) says: March 20, 2014 at 09:52 Love the sunflower smile. Sounds like you are enjoying your travels and all the lessons it comes with. Glad you didnt listen to all the crazy talk on solo travel. http://www.itsallbee.com Reply Jenna says: March 27, 2014 at 12:50 Solo travel is my new favorite! Reply
Gabor Kovacs says: March 21, 2014 at 05:22 I have been living in Spain for almost a decade, but I still haven’t had time to do the Camino del Santiago…it is really on top of my bucket list, I am really jealous of you!:) It must be a really awesome experience, and for a mountain and hiking lover like me, it is just paradise! Thanks for sharing your memories! Reply Jenna says: March 27, 2014 at 12:50 Gabor- I highly recommend it! There are many different Caminos, each with different degrees of difficulty. Good luck!! Reply
iputmylifeonashelf says: March 21, 2014 at 09:55 I love this post! This is something I would love to do one day. I agree completely on doing this alone. What is the point of putting yourself through such a meditative journey if you don’t do it alone? I loved reading how you took a break. It is so important to take care of you today so tomorrow will be better. Everything about this post just ruled. Reply Jenna says: March 27, 2014 at 12:48 Thanks! It was an invaluable journey, and the break really did transform my perspective! Thanks for the positive comments! Reply
Margherita says: March 21, 2014 at 11:17 Loved this post! We walked the Camino in July-August 2013 from St Jean Pied du Port, such an amazing experience… Thanks for sharing! Reply Jenna says: March 27, 2014 at 12:49 Thanks Margherita! You were finishing as I started! So is the Camino.. Reply
Christine Williams says: March 24, 2014 at 04:02 Hey Ashley, this is awesome! I studied abroad in Spain during college and had a couple friends do the trek, but wish i had done it myself! It’s definitely on the to do list! Great blog by the way. Facebook tells me we have some mutual friends, did you happen to go to UCSB? Or perhaps because we’re both from the bay? Anyway, happy blogging! Reply inpursuitofadventureblog says: March 24, 2014 at 04:05 I’m glad you like the blog! And yes I did go to sb, I graduated in 09. You? Reply
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What the Camino de Santiago Actually Is
The Camino de Santiago, or the Way of St. James, is not one trail but a network of pilgrim routes that all lead to the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. For centuries people have walked it for religious reasons, and today walkers come for just as many other reasons: a career change, a loss, a milestone birthday, or simple curiosity. Nobody asks you to explain yourself, and I found that freeing.
The route I walked is the one most people picture when they think of "walking across Spain." It is well marked with yellow arrows and scallop shell symbols, painted on rocks, curbs, trees and lampposts. Even on days when I was tired and distracted, those little arrows kept me on track.
How the Daily Rhythm Works
Life on the Camino settles into a simple routine very quickly. Most pilgrims wake early, often before sunrise, to beat the heat, and finish walking by early afternoon. The rest of the day is for washing clothes, tending to feet, finding a meal and falling asleep early.
- The pilgrim passport: a small booklet you carry and have stamped in albergues, cafes and churches along the way, proof of where you have been.
- Albergues: hostels for pilgrims, usually bunk beds in shared rooms. Some are municipal and basic, others are run by volunteers or private owners.
- The pilgrim menu: many restaurants offer a fixed-price meal aimed at walkers, generous and filling after a long day on your feet.
Practical Advice for Anyone Considering It
If I could go back and whisper a few things to myself before leaving, they would be practical ones. Break in your shoes well before you go, and treat small hot spots on your feet as emergencies rather than annoyances. Pack earplugs for the snoring, and a lightweight layer for chilly mornings, even in summer. Keep your first few days short, because your body needs time to adapt.
It also helps to leave a little slack in your plan. Weather, illness and sore knees will happen, and the pilgrims who enjoyed themselves most were the ones who allowed themselves to adjust, as I did with my weekend by the sea.
What Stays With You Afterward
Returning home, I expected to feel finished. Instead, I felt oddly changed in small ways: I carried less, worried less about what was ahead, and trusted strangers a bit more. The real world, with its full-time work and schedules, looked different after 30 days of owning only what fit in a 14 pound pack.
If you love stories about places that change the people who travel through them, you might enjoy our list of Top 10 Travel Books that Evoke a Country. And if the Camino is calling you, my advice is simple: start walking, and let the arrows do the rest.