There is something I absolutely love about old towns. Maybe it’s the fascinating tales of history in the crumbling walls of the buildings and occasionally in the eyes of those who still live in them. For me, there is romance in the decadence. So within a few hours of arriving in the city, I found myself in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, map in hand, eventually deciding to put it away and simply wander as I pleased.
‘Durbar’, is literally translated as palace and it was not hard to imagine the grandeur of Kathmandu’s Durbar Square in its former days of glory. Within walking distance of Thamel, Kathmandu’s tourist district, the square is a good place to wander about in or sit at one of the terraced viewpoints of the tiered structures and watch how crowds of tourists, guides and locals move through the square throughout the day. The original structures date from the 17th and 18th centuries but many of these were rebuilt after a severe earthquake in 1934. The square was awarded World Heritage Site status by the UN and so attracts a lot of tourists and tour groups.
Kumari Bahal is a red brick three storey building home to the Kumari, a young girl who becomes the living goddess and presides over religious ceremonies until she reaches puberty, after which she goes back to living as a mortal and a new Kumari is chosen. The Kumari Chowk, a three storey courtyard is strikingly beautiful with its intricately carved wooden balconies and windows. It is forbidden to photograph the Kumari who makes an appearance at her window only on important religious days for the crowds that gather for a glimpse. Only Hindus are allowed beyond the courtyard. As I wandered about in the rather silent courtyard, I noticed this little drawing on one of the walls and wondered if the Kumari had drawn this, or perhaps one of her siblings or friends? Was she allowed to have friends? Life must be pretty restrictive for a young child to be treated like a goddess and kept away from modern society.
To the northeast of the square is the entrance to the Hanuman Dhoka, the royal palace of King Pratap Malla and a compound of temples. The monkey god Hanuman can be seen guarding many importance entrances in traditional structures, hence the name Hanuman Dhoka, ‘dhoka’ meaning entrance.
The Nasal Chowk is a courtyard which follows the main entrance and consists of the coronation platform in the center. Important buildings here are the private quarters of the kings, the Audience Chamber and the five storey Panch Mukhi Hanuman temple. To the southern end of Nasal Chowk is the nine storey Basantapur Tower, adorned with erotic carvings on its facade and offers fantastic views of the palace, square and the Old Town from the top.
Apart from the important buildings mentioned in most guides as well as the information booklet that you receive at the entrance while buying your entrance ticket, the lanes and streets around the area in Kathmandu’s Old Town are a treasure trove of beautiful temples, stone and wooden carvings, shrines and sculptures. Sometimes you turn around a corner to find a bright eyed deity looking at you or Hanuman standing guard wrapped in orange. Finding one of these unexpectedly in an alley is like finding your own little piece of Nepali history.
Natasha Amar is a Dubai based travel blogger happily infected by wanderlust. On her blog The Boho Chica, she shares entertaining stories of things that shock, amaze and inspire her even as she tries to challenge herself and seek deeper cultural experiences on her travels. You can connect with her on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and Google+
A Short Background to the Square
Durbar Square sits at the heart of the old Kathmandu, a city that grew rich as a trading post between India and Tibet. The Malla kings, who ruled the valley's rival city-states, competed with one another in building ever more elaborate palaces and temples, and much of what you see today is a product of that rivalry. Walking among the tiered roofs, it is easy to see how each ruler wanted to leave a mark that would outlast him.
The square is not a museum behind glass. Offerings are still placed at the shrines, bells ring at odd hours, and the plinths of the temples double as benches for locals who simply want to sit and chat. That blend of the sacred and the everyday is what gives the place its charm.
Reading the Architecture
Look closely and the buildings start to tell you things. The multi-tiered roofs are supported by carved wooden struts, many depicting deities, animals and mythical creatures. Doors and window frames are carved with astonishing patience, and the dark, aged wood gives the whole square a warm, weathered tone.
- Brick and timber: the dominant materials, which explains why so many structures needed rebuilding after the earthquake.
- Stone guardians: lions and other figures flank steps and entrances, watching over the passers-by.
- Plinth temples: many temples rise from stepped bases, ideal for sitting and watching the square.
Practical Tips for Wandering
Foreign visitors are asked to buy an entrance ticket, so carry some identification and keep the ticket with you. The information booklet that comes with it is useful, but do not let it dictate your route. Early morning is wonderful for soft light and quieter courtyards, while late afternoon brings out the locals and a livelier mood.
Guides will offer their services at the gate. Whether you hire one is a matter of taste: a good guide can unlock the stories behind the carvings, while going alone leaves room for the unplanned discoveries I enjoy most. Wear comfortable shoes, as the paving stones are uneven, and remove your footwear where it is requested at religious sites.
Respecting a Living Heritage
Because this is still an active place of worship, a little courtesy goes a long way. Ask before photographing people at prayer, keep your voice low in the courtyards, and walk around shrines in the way locals do rather than cutting through. Remember too that the restrictions around the Kumari are part of a tradition that many people hold dear, however strange they may seem to an outsider.
For more ideas on getting the most out of a trip like this, have a look at our Travel Advice pages, or browse A Glimpse of for other places where history lingers in the walls.