The Souks of Marrakesh.
I know there are some travelers out there that are tired of trekking down the European trail. I also, having been to Europe, know the feeling of wanting something more. Europe is great and has a lot of history but in some ways Europe can be very familiar and does not always satisfy the need for adventure one craves. So if you are one of those travelers, like me, that has worn the western trail thin I would suggest North Africa. For the second semester of my Freshman year I decided to get away from Europe and travel to Morocco. The country of Morocco, once known as The Western Kingdom, has been populated since Paleolithic times dating back to at least 200,000 B.C. Located in the northwest part of Morocco is the city of Marrakech, which dates back to 1062 C.E., and is a land that thrives with a beautiful and elaborate culture. This city is filled with beautiful people and a maze of markets piled high with a cornucopia of colorful goods.
The largest market, Jemmaa el-Fnaa, is one of the most famous squares in all of Africa; it has been apart of the UNESCO world heritage site since 1985. When I first stepped into this market my eyes did not know where to focus; women in brightly colored Hijabs scurried through the maze and men sat at their stands smoking cigarettes yelling at potential customers. This square has always been known for attracting tradesmen in food, animal forage, domestic items, and snake charmers and you can still see all of this today.
The first thing that caught my attention was the large fanged monkey sitting on the shoulder of some courageous local, and the cobras and pit vipers appearing out of wicker baskets as a man played a wooden flute. I immediately ran forward, as I have always loved snakes, and had to have my photo taken; of course the snake charmer demanded a ridiculous fee but I was able to barter him down to something reasonable. If you are of the faint of heart though you can always take pictures from the distance and avoid paying. I have always had a love for creatures great and small so I just put it as a necessary expense.
I knew my day would not be complete without trying some local cuisine. In the square outside the market there are pots of snails cooking in a spicy broth, camel lung, lamb, and sheep’s brain cooking on the grill. I knew when I decided to go to Morocco I needed to try something you couldn’t get anywhere else, so I tried the camel lung and sheep’s brain. They was interesting, not the best thing I ever had but worth a try. The kung and the brain were cooked in spices and filled great flavor. The texture was different but overall not half bad. While I ate I could hear music being played all around me, some from old stereo sets, some live and all competing with the call to prayer which echoes throughout the city five times a day. After my stomach was full, I paid up and headed off to the Souks (Market).
I entered a tunnel of vendors all trying to sell me something cheap for the family but I ignored their calls and continued straight because I wanted to explore first. These people can sell anything and they are tough so you have to be tough back. A little trick when bartering for the many goods is to take their price divide it by three and start from there. These guys are experts at bartering so you have to act like you know what you are doing. Learn the tricks, tell them that down the way they are selling it for half the price, if they don’t barter with you walk away because if they do not come running after you with a lower price you will find it somewhere else.
While walking through the souks what impressed me was not the chaos but the colors of the cloths, the spices that are put into mounds that seem to reach the ceiling, and the pottery. All the items were gorgeous colors with bright greens, deep reds and shimmering purples that catch the eye. All the little shops were packed together like sardines and seemed to be illuminated by the sun that seeped through the ramshackle roof.
Do not worry about getting lost because you will, this central market goes on forever and it is easy to forget which way is which after a couple of turns. It is pure excitement and you will not be able to go through it all in one day. The souks and the Jemmaa el-Fnaa square is only one section of Marrakesh but definitely one of the most fascinating adventures and learning experiences I’ve had. Take your time when you are in Marrakesh, there is plenty to see and do. I was there for seven days and still want to go back and explore. The souks are the most fascinating areas of Marrakesh. If you get a chance make friends with the people who run the place where you are staying. I made friends with the owners of the Riad (which is like a hostel) I stayed at and they took me out to the less touristy parts of the markets and helped me get some valuable items for almost nothing.
Marrakech is only one city in Morocco and it might be one of the most fascinating cities I have been to. Yes, Northern Africa was definitely out of my comfort zone, but that is what traveling is all about, going outside one’s comfort zone and learning. Traveling to Marrakesh is what gave me the knowledge and comfort to travel to places like Ghana in West Africa, or any other country off the European trail. So if you’re tired of Europe, book a ticket to Marrakesh, Morocco. I promise you that you will not regret it; I most definitely did not.
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Alex and Ashley
Alex and I are foodies and boozies who are excited to travel the world one culture at a time in our upcoming round the world trip. We are setting out on this adventure to showcase all the wonderful people and cultures in the world through our writing, videos and photography. We will be traversing the globe from San Francisco to Iceland to Australia to South America over the next six years. We cannot wait to share our experiences with you.
6 thoughts on “The Souks of Marrakesh.”
youngontheroad says: February 21, 2013 at 18:54 Ahh I would love to travel to Africa. How long are were you in Morocco for? Reply inpursuitofadventureblog says: February 21, 2013 at 19:26 Youngontheroad: I was there for 10 days. I wish I was there longer though. Reply
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A Short History of the Souks
The markets of Marrakesh are nearly as old as the city itself. Founded as a trading post at the edge of the desert, Marrakesh sat where caravans from the Sahara met merchants from the Atlas Mountains and the Atlantic coast. Salt, spices, leather, and metalwork changed hands here for centuries, and the souks grew outward from the great square in a tangle of lanes that has never really been planned.
That history explains the layout. Rather than one giant bazaar, the souks are a patchwork of smaller markets, each traditionally given over to a single craft. Walking through them is a bit like reading a map of what the city has always made and traded.
How the Markets Are Organized
Once you stop worrying about being lost, you start to notice the pattern. Craftsmen who work in the same material tend to cluster together, so the sound and smell change as you walk.
- Leather and slippers: rows of soft, colorful babouches stacked to the ceiling, with the scent of tanned hides in the air.
- Metalwork: the hammering of lanterns, trays, and teapots gives away this section well before you see it.
- Spices and herbs: the mounds I mentioned earlier, often sold alongside natural remedies and dyes.
- Textiles and carpets: hanging cloth in every shade, sold by weight, size, and the patience of the buyer.
If you follow your ears and nose, the sections become easy to find, and you can head straight to the craft you care about.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
A few habits made my days far smoother. Carry small bills and coins, because nobody wants to break a large note, and it keeps you from overpaying out of convenience. Dress modestly, with covered shoulders and knees, which earns you more respect and fewer stares. Wear comfortable shoes, since the lanes are uneven and you will walk for hours.
Drink plenty of water and take breaks. Slipping into a quiet café for a glass of sweet mint tea is a good way to reset when the crowds and the calls from the stalls become too much. Be polite but firm when you are not interested; a smile and a simple "no, thank you" goes a long way.
It is also worth asking before you photograph anyone. Many vendors are happy to pose, but some will not be, and a little courtesy keeps the mood friendly. Like the snake charmer, a few may ask for a tip, so keep that in mind.
Beyond the Bargains
What stayed with me most was not what I brought home but the rhythm of the place. Shopkeepers invite you to sit, pour tea, and talk long before any price is mentioned. Bargaining here is as much a conversation as a transaction, and the best deals I made came after genuinely enjoying the chat.
If you like travel that pushes you out of your comfort zone, the souks deliver. For more tales from the road, you might enjoy A Bath to Remember or the reading list in Our Top 10 Travel Books that Evoke a Country.